Finishing up a research trip to the archives in London, I have a number of notes.
- When you are walking down the street in the center of London (aka the “Tourist Zone”), if a large group of tourists stop suddenly, causing you to have to either a) cannon into them, or b) jump sideways to avoid them, they are almost invariably Germans. Today, Covent Garden, tomorrow, Lebensraum.
- The most exciting moments of several days at the National Army Museum Templer Study Center were a) discovering a picture of Japanese officers with freshly-decapitated Chinese prisoners in front of them, and b) the moment an elderly gentleman, getting his collection of militaria appraised, unwrapped the hand grenade. (Archivist: “Has that been disarmed?” Gentleman: “I suppose so. It hasn’t gone off in 40 years.”)
- The congestion charge has reduced traffic in London enormously and made it much more livable. It has also made the bus system usable again.
- The Public Records Office (which the British have renamed the “National Archives” not realizing that no serious historian will call it anything but the “PRO.” Silly British.) has revamped its ordering and document production process so remarkably that it actually makes it a pleasure to use.
- The Tank At The End Of The Road Where I Used To Live And Now Visit: Still there. Its name is ‘Stompie.’ It’s currently painted with white stripes, aka ‘The Lion King.’
- British Prime Ministers cannot seem to manage their relations with U.S. Presidents to the satisfaction of the British. First, Blair was Bush’s poodle. Now, Gordon Brown isn’t getting good enough gifts from Obama.
- British pubs are heaven for beer drinkers. Even the nastiest, lowest, sleaziest pub has something good on tap. It’s embarrassing just thinking about mass-produced American beer over here.
Another Boxer Post this coming week.
(Posted from Heathrow Departure Lounge)
28 comments
March 14, 2009 at 6:52 am
kid bitzer
oh sweet jesus. a collector of militaria who has not read about people, even in the last decade, getting killed by munitions from wwi and wwii? explosives can be stable for a long, long, time, until suddenly they are not.
i’m assuming that when you witnessed this you immediately threw yourself on top of the grenade in order to save your platoon-mates, just out of instinct and reflex. and now you’re too modest to tell us. that’s alright, silbey, we know.
March 14, 2009 at 8:44 am
Bitchphd
Just for the record, I would rather recieve DVDs than a pen holder. (Or Jesus, a 7-volume biography of Churchill? SNORE.) PK would rather recieve a model plane or helicopter than clothing.
March 14, 2009 at 9:41 am
kid bitzer
i’m pretty confident that pk would rather receive a hand grenade than a model plane.
March 14, 2009 at 10:13 am
eric
Sorry, B, I think Silbey’s already left Blighty. Maybe next time.
March 14, 2009 at 11:20 am
Kevin
Germans are bad, but Japanese tourists are the worst.
I was at the British Museum about a decade ago. Looking at a document under glass, when a Japanese tour group’s guide raised the signal card that it was time for them to move on to the next room, and suddenly it was a stampede. I had three different people slam directly into me. If I hadn’t had a foot and 50 pounds or so on them, I would’ve been trampled.
Good times. Good times.
March 14, 2009 at 11:50 am
Hortense
True story: some years ago I was an archaeologist on a dig at a military base in the Mojave Desert when I thunked something hard with my shovel. Half an hour of careful troweling revealed unexploded ordnance.
Fortunately our crew chief was a military vet and recognized it for what it was. The next day soldiers came out and detonated it in place.
This did not do much for the integrity of the archaeological site.
March 14, 2009 at 12:54 pm
Colin
Last year at the Vatican museum, one of the pleasures of the Etruscan rooms was that they’re off the tour-group routes. No stampedes or camera flashes.
March 14, 2009 at 5:50 pm
Josh
True story: some years ago I was an archaeologist on a dig at a military base in the Mojave Desert when I thunked something hard with my shovel. Half an hour of careful troweling revealed unexploded ordnance.
This happens every so often in Flanders. I took a tour of the battlefields a few years ago; at one point the tourguide stopped the bus, got out, and held up a WWI-era grenade he’d found.
One of the other people on the tour had been in the Australian Army, specifically dealing with unexploded ordinance. He was not amused.
March 15, 2009 at 4:05 am
kid bitzer
lotta folks don’t realize how advanced the indigenous mohave peoples were in their antipersonnel explosive technologies.
you think about southwestern indian material culture, you probably think of clay more. not mines.
but it doesn’t have to be an either/or thing.
March 15, 2009 at 4:29 am
silbey
Aha! I’m back. Flying Virgin Atlantic was actually quite pleasant, and getting through immigration and customs was smooth and efficient. The immigration official who greeted me was doing his master’s in history and we discussed his capstone project for a bit (while 3000 people glowered from behind the red line).
As to kb’s insinuation at the beginning, I can neither confirm nor deny it (actually, I rotated in my seat and gawked and then–true nerd style–thought ‘Why, I think that’s a Mills bomb from the second world war. Hmm.’)
Bitch, your presents are in the mail. I could only get the 7 volume Churchill biography but I did get the 14 volumes of accompanying documents for PK, so you have a complete set.
The physical behavior of tourists is fascinating to me. Americans tend to be loudest, in my experience, but Germans and Japanese the most physically obtrusive. Standing between a gaggle of Japanese tourists and the opening tube door is, as Kevin pointed out, taking your life in your hand.
you probably think of clay more. not mines.
That’s a really awful pun.
March 15, 2009 at 5:04 am
kid bitzer
someone was going to stumble over that pun sooner or later, and someone mighta got hurt. i was just taking one for the team.
March 15, 2009 at 5:07 am
kid bitzer
more importantly: welcome back to the land of the free.
March 15, 2009 at 5:24 am
TF Smith
Couldn’t the president have given back Rupret Murdoch, Roger Cohen, Alexander Cockburn, Tony Blankley, Andrew Sullivan, and all the rest of the expatriate Empahers?
That would have been a gift for the United States, at least…
March 15, 2009 at 10:26 am
Bitchphd
Oh, PK will be thrilled.
His opinion on history is that dates and wars and heads of state are boring. It’s the history of “real people” and social mores and technology that’s cool.
March 15, 2009 at 10:50 am
Chris J
Regarding unexploded things, John Keegan wrote in Face of Battle that for many, many years after WW I the fields of the Somme had to be plowed by mechanical plows strung along by cables — it was too dangerous for anyone walking behind a team of horses or sitting on a tractor.
March 15, 2009 at 10:55 am
andrew
I took a tour of the battlefields a few years ago
Was the tour in a mini-bus, starting from Bruges? I took what was probably a similar tour from a guide who recalled collecting and then selling scrap metal found in the fields – some of which was World War I era – when he was a kid. He also said there are still (as of 2001) some areas where farmers won’t plow because they’re not sure it’s safe.
March 15, 2009 at 11:30 am
Robert Southey
Old Kaspar took it from the boy,
Who stood expectant by;
And then the old man shook his head,
And with a natural sigh,
“‘Tis some poor fellow’s skull,” said he,
“Who fell in the great victory.
“I find them in the garden,
For there’s many here about;
And often, when I go to plow,
The plowshare turns them out;
For many thousand men,” said he,
“Were slain in that great victory.”
“Now tell us what ‘twas all about,”
Young Peterkin, he cries;
And little Wilhelmine looks up
With wonder-waiting eyes;
“Now tell us all about the war,
And what they fought each other for.”
“It was the English,” Kaspar cried,
“Who put the French to rout;
But what they fought each other for,
I could not well make out;
But everybody said,” quoth he,
“That ‘twas a famous victory.
March 15, 2009 at 1:34 pm
Bitchphd
“too dangerous for anyone walking behind a team of horses”
Not to mention too dangerous for the horses.
March 15, 2009 at 1:55 pm
kid bitzer
will no one think of the cables?
alas–demining is still an ongoing problem in vietnam and cambodia.
March 15, 2009 at 3:48 pm
Josh
Was the tour in a mini-bus, starting from Bruges?
Yep, that’s the one.
I took what was probably a similar tour from a guide who recalled collecting and then selling scrap metal found in the fields – some of which was World War I era – when he was a kid. He also said there are still (as of 2001) some areas where farmers won’t plow because they’re not sure it’s safe.
Yeah, we went to Verdun last year, and there were signs at Fort Douaumont warning hikers not to wander off the trails, because of UXO.
I need to find my photos from tour of Flanders. I have one that’s of a giant pile of spent artillery shell casings, still there 80 years later.
March 15, 2009 at 5:00 pm
Anderson
Bob Southey! you’re a poet!
March 15, 2009 at 6:17 pm
teofilo
I haven’t been to Flanders, but I have been to the Mojave. And yes, I will continue to seize on any possible opportunity to link to photos of my road trip.
March 15, 2009 at 7:40 pm
eric
I haven’t been to Flanders, but I have been to the Mojave.
I’ve never been to Spain, but I kinda like the music.
March 15, 2009 at 9:07 pm
teofilo
I don’t get it.
(Great, start ’em young.)
March 16, 2009 at 11:25 am
rea
“It was the English,” Kaspar cried,
“Who put the French to rout;
But what they fought each other for,
I could not well make out . . .
The Spanish Succession, if I recall correctly . .
March 16, 2009 at 1:06 pm
teofilo
Speaking of Britain, those BBC blokes are all right.
March 19, 2009 at 3:00 am
alanM
Discussion of the Boxer Rebellion on BBC Radio 4
http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/history/inourtime/inourtime.shtml
Contributors
Frances Wood, Curator of Chinese Collections at the British Library
Rana Mitter, Professor of the History and Politics of Modern China at the University of Oxford
Gary Tiedemann, Senior Research Fellow at the Centre for the Study of Christianity in China
March 19, 2009 at 4:53 am
silbey
alanM: Cool, thanks!